Patricia was still burning incense when we got up and I couldn't wait to get out of there. We made a quick trip to the market and got more Asian pears from the same vendor. Uneventful bus ride. It was getting warmer and warmer the further north we went. Crew helped us move our bikes and luggage when we changed bus in Santiago. We were in Valparaiso late in the afternoon. The streets were really busy. It is a big city no doubt. Our hosptaje was very close to the bus station, but we had to carry all our stuff through narrow stairs to the second floor. In the hallway there were a big bird cage and a tank too small for the turtle inside. The hostess was quite friendly. After getting settled, we inquired about places to eat. Senora pointed us a place that serves "Typical Valparaiso" food. Brian told Senora our Taco story in Torres. On our way out, Senora poked fun at me, "This taco is not that Taco." It took us a while to find the recommended restaurant in an alley. Music was playing inside and the atmosphere was good. The menu was simple too -- there isn't one. Basically, they offer a signature dish, churillana. That is steak bits and sautéed onion over French fries dripped with cheese. Oh my. I didn't quite feel like staying but we were already boxed in at the time. Everybody around seemed to be enjoying their meal very much. Young couples all order a two-person size and ate from the same plate. Brian asked the waiter if they could make some veggie for me. My plate came out with two pork chops with tomato and rice. Anyway, the decor was quite interesting inside and when you are not counting calories, cholesterol, and have a big appetite, churillana might be the thing for you. Somehow, I already missed the days back in the bush. We stopped by an ice-cream parlor on the way back and I picked a flavor I didn't like. It was just one of these days. Brian offered me his. Back at the hosptaje, Senora was curious about our dining experience. We didn't want to disappoint her. "A lot of food." Brian told her, and she seemed to be happy with that answer.